Every single time I’ve read a travel website or blog about Morocco, it ALWAYS describes the endless maze that is the Medina of Marrakech – infamous for its winding streets, aggressive haggling, and overstimulating nature. While initially intimidating, I was determined to explore the Medina and see if I could really master the shopping and navigation in such a unique environment. My first experience in the Medina was with a local guide, making for a very easy, enjoyable experience. This past weekend I spent almost three whole days traversing the Medina and I think I can now say I’m finally getting the hang of things.
One of my coworkers is local to the area and was kind enough to take a few of us around the Medina to his favorite places. It was incredibly helpful to have a local Moroccan walk us around and I’m so grateful for such a personal Medina tour! We started off at Dar el Bacha, translating to “house of the pashsa” (governor). It was built in 1910 and was the residence of pasha Thami El Glaoui until its renovation in into the Musée des Confluences in in 2017. Dar el Bacha reminded me so much of Bahia Palace with its gorgeous architecture, tile work, and riad filled with orange trees. There were several museum exhibits in the side rooms, which displayed a lot of neat artifacts from Muslim, Christian, and Jewish history. We also stopped in the Bacha Coffee House which had an incredible coffee selection from around the world.
From there we walked towards the southern end of the Medina to the Mellah or Jewish Quarter of Marrakech. The Jewish population in Morocco grew during the 1400s, and Jews were protected in the Mellah as non-Muslims living in an Islamic State. Here, we visited El Badi Palace, translated as the “Palace of Wonder” in Arabic. Today all that remains of the palace is ruins, but it was still incredible to walk amongst such old history. The views from the top of the ramparts were unbelievable as you could look out over the old palace as well as all of the Medina. We also walked down into the subterranean chambers which are now converted into a photographic history museum.
After a busy afternoon of soaking in Marrakech’s history, I was greatly looking forward to tackling the Medina at my own pace. I went back the following morning with no real plan in hopes of just wandering around and exploring. I entered the Medina at about 9:30am, which in my opinion is a pro-tip to a great Medina experience. The souks were open and I was pretty much the only person walking around, making for a significantly more quiet, relaxing and enjoyable experience.
I was given the recommendation to go to the Maison de la Photographie (thank you Annie) which was SO worth a visit! It is a riad converted into a private photography collection with amazing shots of Morocco throughout the years. The walls are filled with portraits, landscapes, and photos of street scenes and daily life in cities like Marrakech, Fez, Tangier, Casablanca, Meknes, and Tétouan. It was also neat to read about the different photographic techniques used throughout history. Because I got to the museum so early, I had the entire place to myself which was amazing.
My absolute favorite part was the rooftop cafe, which has one of the best views of the city. It was breathtaking to look out over the Medina, and I could even see views stretching as far as Guéliz. Initially, I was so focused on immediate landscape that I didn’t even notice the INCREDIBLE, panoramic view of the High Atlas Mountains in the distance. One of my favorite things about Marrakech is contrasting environment; living in a bustling city, but being able to look outside and see the mountains in the distance at almost any perspective. I enjoyed a coffee and the views for probably an 1.5 hours, with the entire rooftop to myself. It was the most peaceful experiences I’ve had in a long time, and was truly beautiful to enjoy.
After a lovely morning at the museum, I began wandering throughout the Medina some more, making smaller stops. To me, it feels so freeing to not always have a plan or purpose, and just wander into anywhere that peaks my interest. With this mindset, I found some of the COOLEST spots. I ventured into several antique galleries with multiple floors of paintings, sculptures, beautiful rugs, and thousands of other vintage pieces. Additionally, many gallery owners were very kind and willing to let me onto the rooftop as well, making for more beautiful views. I also stumbled upon a women’s cooperative with tons of handmade products made my local female artisans. I love finding places like this that are focused on fair-trade and showcase the talents and arts of local women.
For lunch, I decided to stop somewhere random. Often, there will be staircases on the street leading up to rooftop restaurants or cafes; so I chose one at random and decided to check it out. Apparently, I had great luck that day because I had a wonderful experience at Terrasse des épices.
Up until this trip, I would have never actively chosen to eat at a restaurant alone. Places like a restaurant are meant for socializing and community, so the potential for being lonely in a space like that is certainly intimidating. In this instance I didn’t have much of a choice, but sitting down at my table for one was surprisingly great. Being truly content with your own company is the BEST feeling, and those moments of empowerment remind me of how much I love my independence and where its taken me. There are definitely still moments that make me wish I could enjoy these experiences with my family and friends from home; but I do my best to appreciate those feelings of loneliness too because they make me cherish those times even more. I sat with these super fun thoughts throughout my lunch and enjoyed the views and listening to the live saxophone and guitar duo that played nearby.
In the afternoon I wandered around for a couple more hours, finding even more unique souks and shops. I haggled for a ring and pair of earrings which is always fun, and walked away with new jewelry that I still probably paid too much for. As the sun started to set, I decided to find one more rooftop cafe to relax and have a drink at. I wandered upstairs into Chinguitti Cafe, a little rooftop with couches to lounge on and a huge talking bird in a cage. Here, I sat overlooking the Rahba Kedima square which made for great people watching. This was the perfect end to the day as I soaked in the setting sun while listening to music and watching the bustling square below me.
At this point you would think I’d be sick of the Medina, but Sunday morning rolled around and I was on my way back. This time I spent the day with my coworkers as we casually shopped around explored some more. We visited Amazir, a tiny shop in Souk Chérifia I had briefly checked out the day before because I loved its aesthetic and decor. This time I got talking with the shop owner, who was was a Moroccan woman about my age. She had only opened up her shop a month ago, and it was really exciting to see a young, women-owned business in a heavily male-dominated space like the Medina. I was MORE than happy to support her business and she even offered to work together to create a custom rug for my apartment in Boston. Moments like that make my heart so happy.
For lunch, I was DETERMINED to find a rooftop cafe I had quickly visited the day before. I’ll admit that this was the only point of frustration I had in the Medina as I walked in circles for probably 15 minutes until I found the correct alleyway that led me to where I wanted to go. But the hunt was well worth it, as my coworkers and I sat and enjoyed a beautiful, sunny, private couch space and lunch at Soul Food for about three hours. It was so relaxing and I’m very grateful for the opportunities I have to socialize and be with other people my age in a new country. We pretty much sat and chatted here for the rest of the day, and finally walked back to Guéliz as the sun was setting.
It was truly a great weekend filled with simultaneous excitement, relaxation, and introspection. This weekend helped me to realize how incredible, yet temporary my current state of life is, and how important it is to take advantage of EVERY single opportunity that comes my way. It also encouraged me to continue challenging myself, testing my capabilities, and embracing my independence. Choosing to step outside my comfort zone on Saturday and explore such a new environment alone certainly paid off and made for one of the most fulfilling days I’ve had in a very, very long time. And those feelings of empowerment make every anxiety or worry I had about working abroad so worth it!
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